It's even convenient for me. I like the simple black and white colours of Beşiktaş. They are suitable for wearing even on a daily basis. Not like this multicoloured Galata shirts. Although the big three, as Attila claims, grew from working-class roots, GS and FB eventually began to become popular with the elite and some upper-class people over time, and BJK remained closest to the ideas in which it was born. That's why it has so many dedicated fans creating an unforgettable atmosphere.

Beşiktaş is quite a pleasant district. Going to the habitat of the most fanatic football fans in Turkey, however, I rather expected some dilapidated buildings, dirt and poverty around, and instead I ended up in a quarter full of nice restaurants, pubs and cafes, where a tourist would probably hang out from time to time, although there is no question of multiculturalism here, that one would witness in İstiklal or Galata areas.

I was surprised by the large number of the girls involved in football. And it's not just on the principle that "my boyfriend supports club X, so will I as long as I'm with him." They just sit around the table with their all-female group and watch the game. On one of the forearms you can see a subtly tattooed date of founding the club, on the other the coat of arms. Attila says the increased interest in football among girls has been a steady trend for several years. Probably a lot of impact on this was put by the controversial Passolig system, which, despite its many disadvantages, has definitely made Turkish stadiums safer.

In yesterday's derby, unfortunately, Beşiktaş loses 1:2. Or in fact, I should write - we lose 1:2! Because you know, since yesterday I've been "baptised" by Çarşı as a BJK fanatic! Maybe not "since birth", but certainly "'till I die". After all, I have no other choice. Because in Turkey I can change practically everything. Except for one thing...

- In Turkey you can change practically everything. A job, a car, a political party, even religion. The only thing you won't be able to change is the club you support!

These were the words Attila warned me with yesterday as we were approaching the official shop at the Besiktaş Stadium, about an hour before the start of the big Istanbul derby, Galatasaray vs. Besiktaş. So far, I haven't had any specific supporters' preferences in Turkey, so it didn't matter to me which fans I'd watch this match with, as long as there would be good atmosphere.

- If you want to feel the real atmosphere of a match in Turkey, it's only in the district of Beşiktaş fans, among the so-called Çarşı.

Interestingly, Attila himself, whom I met in the summer in the Kaçkar Mountains (last photo, with two of his companions on the top of Kaçkar Dağı), is not a fan of BJK, but of the third of the great Istanbul clubs - Fenerbahçe.

- Hey, it's obvious that if Fener played today, we would watch the game on the Asian side, in the Kadıköy district, and you would get another information package about the best atmosphere in Turkey. - Attila laughs. - But of these two clubs, it's definitely BJK!

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